Foundry Street entrepreneurs cook up new business in Waterbury
Oct. 21, 2023 | By Sandy Yusen | CorrespondentThere’s a hum of creative energy coming from 40 Foundry Street, where new food and beverage businesses are coming to life in this historic building a block away from Main Street.
Once the original headquarters for Green Mountain Coffee Roasters, the building now houses new thriving restaurant Salt & Rind, relocated growing empanada business Paprika Catering, and opening soon, The Tropic Brewing. The Vermont Mountain Bike Association and wholesale kimchi producer Sunja’s—now under new ownership after 29 years in business—also have space in the building.
Historic property builds on its storied past
Mark Frier, owner of The Reservoir in Waterbury and The Bench in Stowe, bought the 40 Foundry Street property from the late Steve Van Esen in 2017. Frier frequently saw Van Esen at Aztlan, the Mexican spot on the southeast end of the building that closed early this year. The pair would chat about the building and its history over burritos, Frier recalled. “This went on for five years…I would run into him, he would get his burrito, I’d ask him to sell the building to me. One day he said ‘maybe,’ and that’s how it started.”
Frier said the Foundry Street spot appealed to him because “it’s a fun, cool, big building downtown, in the heat of things,” yet offset from Main Street. Since acquiring the property, Frier said he has been selective with tenants, choosing businesses that draw people and bring energy to this part of downtown. He says it’s been an interesting challenge to “have all these tenants that are trying to run individual businesses but also have to make a historic old building work for everyone.”
A former chair of the Waterbury Select Board and member of various town committees, Frier said he believes economic development efforts since Tropical Storm Irene have helped to diversify Waterbury’s downtown businesses and attract more people to live and work in the area. He credits The Alchemist for inspiring him to start his own business in Waterbury, and Hen of the Wood for igniting Waterbury’s “hospitality food energy.”
This energy is apparent at 40 Foundry Street, where a new generation of local entrepreneurs is tapping into their passions to start and grow their own businesses, and putting Waterbury on the map for unique food and beverage options.
Salt & Rind brightens up 40 Foundry St. Photo by Doyle
A new salty-bitter-fun vibe
Word has spread fast about Salt & Rind since its opening in July, and the 20-seat cocktail and oyster bar was hopping on a recent Thursday night. Co-owners Britt Thompson and Luke Williams were in constant motion—Williams in the small open kitchen shucking oysters and assembling dishes, and Thompson chatting and joking with customers while deftly executing a long pour for an enticing cocktail.
With a name that is, as Thompson describes, “salty like the sea, bitter like the rinds of our cocktails,” the space brings to life the couple’s creative vision, their DIY ethos, and their love of Vermont combined with their coastal roots in Maine and Cape Cod.
Thompson designed the logo that lights up in neon over the bar. Wooden crates displaying spirits on the back wall come from a cranberry bog on Cape Cod. A colorful mural along the interior walls, a holdover from previous occupant PK Coffee, will soon be extended to the adjacent wall, currently a blank canvas for the couple’s own eclectic flair.
“We make food we crave,” Thompson says of the menu. “We love making our versions of our grandparents’ recipes. It feels good to honor them and our upbringing.” Diners can enjoy dishes such as deviled eggs, chicken tacos, and an artistic cheese and charcuterie array. But the highlight is the oysters, which are reasonably priced and come from coastal New England. Britt believes oysters should be accessible to all: “Oyster farming is amazing for the seas and environment. They’re super rich in minerals and amazing for your heart and I swear it’s a great accompaniment to a few cocktails.”
Williams, who previously worked with Frier at The Bench and as the general manager for The Reservoir, saw a fortuitous opportunity to land the business in Waterbury. “Timing, the universe, the size of the location, placement… it all felt right,” he said. “Vermont is truly amazing and we feel super lucky to be a part of this community.”
Co-owner Britt Thompson works the cocktail station at Salt & Rind at 40 Foundry Street while Luke Williams, back right, preps oysters. Photo by Doyle
The pair have rolled with the punches of owning a restaurant. “You learn, adjust, learn, adjust…It just takes some trial and error. You have to learn the hard way sometimes,” Thompson said. Recently, they were forced to close temporarily because the oysters got stuck in FedEx’s Tennessee hub en route from Cape Cod. “If we could get a hold of anyone at FedEx, we’d tell them to eat that food,” she joked.
Salt & Rind’s hours allow the pair to run a complementary catering event business. Currently, the restaurant is open Thursday through Saturday evenings, but this may evolve, along with the couple’s many ideas for the space. “Our whole life is a never-ending project in the best way. Just you wait!” Thompson said.
Paprika Catering expands empanada production
Paprika Catering owners Jacqueline de Achaval and Jennifer McCabe-de Achaval are prepping their new space. Courtesy photo
Since taking over the former Aztlan location on Oct. 1, Jacqueline de Achaval and Jennifer McCabe-de Achaval have been hard at work retrofitting the 1,200-square-foot space to bring their empanadas to more people in Waterbury and beyond.
Once open, Paprika will offer counter service for take-out and seating for approximately 20 customers to enjoy empanadas, wine, and beer on site. A large kitchen, new equipment, and a loading dock shared with other 40 Foundry St. businesses will allow for growth in Paprika’s wholesale business. A new empanada-making machine will expand capacity from 800 empanadas per day to an estimated 2,000, according to the owners.
The opening date and retail days and hours are yet to be determined. “Realistically, it’s ready when it’s ready,” Jackie said. They anticipate hiring three to five new staff members to support the retail business.
In the meantime, Paprika will continue its event catering services and expand partnerships with venues such as breweries, ice rinks, universities, and event spaces. Jackie sees Paprika filling a gap for establishments that want a convenient solution for offering food that is not labor-intensive and doesn’t require building a kitchen.
The McCabe-de Achavals are planning 10 new varieties of empanadas, covering most dietary needs. Unlike the current empanadas which feature a different shape for each flavor, the new machine creates one shape that is stamped with initials indicating variety. Eventually, the menu may expand to soups, salads, and packaged hot sauce. “The possibilities are endless,” Jen said. “We can play and explore while having the safety and consistency of the empanadas.”
Paprika has been able to maintain its business while under construction due to its unique partnership with neighboring Stowe Street Cafe, which has leased its lower-level community prep kitchen to Paprika through November. Stowe Street Cafe owner Nicole Grenier is both cheering on Paprika and seeking other food entrepreneurs to potentially fill that space once Paprika moves.
“The entire team at Stowe Street Cafe is thrilled for Jackie & Jen! They have worked incredibly hard for this opportunity and we are all very excited for what's to come,” Grenier said. “As for the cafe, we are currently reviewing inquiries from small food businesses to see if we can assist them with access to licensed commercial kitchen space for their processing and production needs, and possibly use of our space to pop up in the evenings.”
Collaborative relationships have helped Paprika grow, from Stowe Street Cafe to the branded clothing printed by Factotum Designs next door, to their roster of wholesale partners. “Waterbury is full of hard-working passionate people who care,” Jen said. “These businesses are creating fantastic cultures that we are mirroring in ours.”
There also is a camaraderie in the shared challenges in this tight-knit small-business community, she added. “Sometimes things feel hard when we’re running a business…you go to these places and it feels like a hug.”
Meanwhile, the legacy of Green Mountain Coffee Roasters at 40 Foundry Street is felt in more than just spirit. “We were wondering where all of the coffee pots came from,” Jackie said.
The Tropic Brewing aims for winter opening
Behind the brown-papered windows in the center of 40 Foundry St., brothers Matt and Zach Gordon are working to get The Tropic Brewing brewery ready to open. The pair took over the 2,400-square-foot space in 2021 with plans for a beer manufacturing operation and a small taproom to serve beer and light food on site. Once completed, the space will have a four-barrel brewhouse and cellar capacity of 350-500 barrels, each containing 31 and a half gallons of beer.
Their backstory?
Matt held leadership roles with the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers’ Association and Cape Cod Cranberry Growers, and took up home brewing as a creative outlet. After taking classes during the COVID-19 pandemic to learn the science of brewing, he and his brother decided to start their own business.
The origin of the name is twofold. Matt and his brother are inspired by the ingredients, imagery, and culture of the tropics, as well as the etymology of the word “tropic,” which means “turn” or “change.” For Matt, this symbolizes the personal changes inherent in starting a new business, and the differences he envisions for his brand and beers.
“There is lots of legacy and tradition in brewing,” he explained. “And at the same time, there is lots of new science, and the technology going into the raising of malt, barley, and hops has exploded. We want to do this in a way that embraces this new technology.”
This distinctiveness is key for The Tropic Brewing to stand out among the many regional breweries. “One of the real hallmarks for us that we think about as we’re testing different recipes is to not be fatigued by flavor,” Matt said. He cites drinkability and repeatability as guiding considerations, with most beers featuring a lower alcohol content of under 5%.
Asked recently about an opening date, the brothers had a deadpan response: “Six months ago?”
Like much of the experience starting up the business, plans have evolved in the face of realities. The Gordons have had to push through unexpected hurdles, including electrical upgrades and supply chain delays. Now aiming for a winter opening, they must finish the taproom, finalize plumbing and electrical work, and secure final permitting.
Despite the challenges, Matt said he has enjoyed the creative aspects of starting up his own business, from product development to branding and marketing. Taking lessons from his past work experiences, he said, “We are hopefully growing and creating a culture where we have people excited to come in, buy the beer, hang out, and be excited to work there too.”
Looking at the big picture, Matt described Waterbury as a place that embraces creative entrepreneurial opportunities.” He pointed to the steady flow of people through downtown from tourists to local Vermonters. “Waterbury offers cool things for people to do. It’s got a vibe and energy to it that feels like it's worthwhile investing in,” he said.
It’s also exciting to grow a business in a place that you can call home, Matt added. “We wanted to embrace being here in town and supporting this town. We are building a business, but also a personal life, too.”
Sandy Yusen is a freelance writer and Waterbury resident.